Have you ever visited somewhere and found you’ve lost a bit of your travel sparkle? It could be somewhere deliciously beautiful but for some reason you are not feeling it. I’ll put my hands up, I have. It was in Stockholm’s old town, Gamla Stan. The area is one of the best preserved medieval city centres in Europe and is where Stockholm was founded in 1252. Clearly I should have been very impressed but I was in one of those moods that was proving difficult to shift.
Let’s look at the reasons behind my unenthusiastic vibe. Firstly, it was busy! Arriving on a Saturday afternoon, the place was teeming with tourists thanks to the numerous cruise ships which dock nearby. It is quite hilly as well, the aged cobbled streets making it tricky to navigate with a buggy (and hard work).
It was also deceptively hot. It hadn’t started that way. As the day progressed what I thought was going to be a cool day had suddenly turned rather tropical. After walking a couple of miles there from our hotel, the layers of clothes I was wearing had started sticking to my arms and legs as I trundled across the city, pushing our three-month-old daughter in the pram. Our four year old was doing well but she was flagging. Tired children are soooo much fun. Don’t be fooled by my smile here, it didn’t last long.
Another reason for my slight underwhelming response was that over the past year, we have been to a lot of magnificent European cities and towns filled with colourful buildings and medieval half- timbered housing. Take Troyes in France for example then there was Modena and Bologna and more recently the picturesque hilltop villages in Provence. A week of travelling through Sweden on a road trip with two children, probably didn’t help. Perhaps I had a touch of travel fatigue.
Gamla Stan is located on the island of Stadsholmeml. The first thing we saw, on edge of the area, is The Royal Palace of Stockholm. It’s the official residence of the Swedish monarchy and the changing of the guard occurs daily (Mon-Sat: 12:15, Sun: 1.15pm). We were aiming to see this spectacle in the palace’s courtyard. Unfortunately, we got there just as it was finishing. We did get to see the guards on horseback though, parading down the street in all their finery.
We later spied them taking off helmets and getting onto their rather less glamorous coach – which brought a little smile to my face. Just a little.
You can go in the palace and there are free 45-minute tours in English which run a couple of times a day. We were planning to look around the palace another day but we ran out of time. Stockholm is a big city and there really is a lot to see.
We had a quick wander around the cobbled streets before our baby daughter needed feeding and we picked the nearest cafe which had some space. ‘Chokladkoppen’ was slap bang in the middle of the main square, Stortorget, so it was a good spot to watch the world go by.
View the colourful buildings.
And enjoy a coffee and babycino.
The Nobel Museum is also in Gamla Stan. It presents the history of the Nobel Prizes and its recipients. It also runs daily free guided tours daily.
Something that did impress me was Stockholm Cathedral although as one of the city’s oldest buildings (consecrated in 1306), that’s probably not a surprise. The cathedral was a quiet, cool sanctuary away from the steamy cobbled streets and the Gothic-Baroque interior was incredible.
It also had some interesting artefacts inside such as a wooden statue of St George and the Dragon which dates from 1489.
As we left, we saw another statue of St George and the Dragon. St George may be the patron saint of England but the slaying of the dragon is a symbol of Sweden. It represents the Swedish victory at the Battle at Brunkeberg in 1471 when Sweden was attacked by Denmark.
And with that our short tour of Gamla Stan was over. My mood had shifted a little by the end and I had started to appreciate the area a bit more. Looking over my photos I am wondering what on earth was wrong with me. But somedays you just aren’t feeling it, right? I do think I have been spoilt by the many historic cities and towns, I have been fortunate enough to visit. Gamla Stan is a wonderful place to explore, it just didn’t stand out hugely against other European old towns. Having said that, it IS a must-see in Stockholm. When we return to the city (one day), I’ll revisit Gamla Stan but this time I’ll go early to miss the crowds, wear appropriate clothing, spend more time there, do a guided walking tour and maybe ditch the buggy. Perhaps then I will appreciate the beauty and history of Gamla Stan a bit more.
Have you ever been underwhelmed by a place or attraction. Have you been to Galam Stan? What did you make of it?
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I’m sorry you didn’t enjoy. We didn’t enjoy the first time – mainly because it was summer and busy and it was my first time experiencing morning sickness – I may or not have thrown up all over their lovely palace! However we went just before Christmas and it was not very busy at all and I enjoyed it much more. But I must admit I enjoyed around VasaMuseum, Skansen and the botanic gardens more than Gamla. Maybe a second visit would be more successful! #citytripping
You certainly had good reason not to be wowed (and I’m glad it wasn’t just me) . We went early September and it was very busy. I preferred the Vasa too!
Croatia was a bit like that for us. We were so excited to go, but once we got there it was incredibly hot and tourists EVERYWHERE. We were constantly having to push through people, even at Plitvice Lake! We made the best of it though and hope to go back. But you gave a good description of what to expect of Stockholm. I had never realized it could get so warm there. I just always imagine it being cold. #CityTripping
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Oooh really? I am very keen to go to Croatia perhaps I should manage my expectations. What time of year did you go? We went to Stockholm at the beginning of September, it wasn’t hugely warm (maybe 26/27) but I was dressed totally inappropriately because I thought it was going to be cold. Error!
Yes I have, I felt underwhelmed by Dublin, a city that most people adore. My excuse was that I was pregnant and feeling very sick and so tired that I was in bed every night by 8pm – hardly the way to appreciate a city known for its lively pub scene!! However, I’ve been to Stockholm twice and absolutely love it.
Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…Sunday Photo – wintry Côte d’Azur
Hehe – Phoebe that is a very good excuse. I am even harder to please when pregnant and yes Guinness, pubs and pregnancy doesn’t mix.
Your photos do look wonderful! I am sorry it wasn’t a great day for you. It happens. We had a fabulous holiday in Rome a couple of years ago but our visit to the Vatican was far from one of the highlights. Oh my goodness… the crowds 🙁
#citytripping
The Vatican can be hideous. I don’t remember it being TOO bad when we went but it was before kids so probably didn’t notice as much. WAY too many people in one place.
Calling the weather the wrong way is a sure fire way to dampen spirits, there is nothing worse than being too hot/cold/wet other than maybe blisters! Throw in a buggy, crowds, cobbles and hills and you did well to smile at all. Still want to go toGamla Stan though!
Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays recently posted…MUSEUM SELFIE
Haha – thank you Catherine. You should go!
A very honest article! I remember we went to some windmills in the Netherlands which was really recommended on Tripadvisor, but it was so busy and touristy when we got there that we didn’t really get it either. I’m still pleased we went, but it shows that everyone has different opinions about places which is definitely a good thing. #citytripping.
Jo Addison recently posted…5 Train Carriages To Stay In With A Toddler
It is Jo and I have found it so interesting hearing about everyone different travel experiences!
I guess I was kind of in the same mood in Brussels (sans the kids though). But I loved Gamla Stan! we visited in April, it was morning, there weren’t a lot of people around and it was perfect:) and cold!:)
Tanja (the Red phone box travels) recently posted…WPC: Graceful (my cat)
I remember reading your post Tanja! I think the busy streets had an impact on my experience.
Your photos are lovely and Gamla Stan looks like a great place to spend wandering (ahem!) but I completely understand how a child’s mood can impact your whole experience. Very timely with respect to this morning’s drop off at nursery!
Katy recently posted…London loves: London canals – Little Venice to Camden Lock boat trip
He he… Got to love them, ay!!
I’ve been to countries that are at the end of a stretch of travel and not even bothered to learn the name of the currency, I was that over it. Shame on me. But have also spent half a sunny day in Gamla Stan and been amazed by its beauty. thanks for the honesty!
And thank you for your honesty too! I’ve had the currency thing before. Glad you enjoyed Gamla Stan xx
Oh dear! We haven’t done a city break in a while now, and that’s parly due to having a similarly disappointing experience in Brussels. We both adore the place, but when we went there with our son it was just…difficult. I need to try again now that the children are a little older. I think babies and city trips can be a great combination – or it can be a disaster! #citytripping
Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) recently posted…What no snow?? Muddy Puddles skiwear at home
Yes, I agree. There’s a lot more potential to go wrong when you have babies: feeding, sleeping, not sleeping, prams. It’s a bit of a juggling act.
It still looks really pretty even if a little underwhelming. Yes I was so underwhelmed with Brussels but I think it was because we did Saudi Arabia, Morocco and Antwerp just before it and then suddenly we were in this city hunting for that little wee-ing boy and we stood in front of it so unimpressed. The chocolate was still nice though¬
Notmyyearoff recently posted…Before we tuck in – Those food photos
Haha! Belgium does chocolate well! Glad I’m not the only one to have that travel moment.
I know just what you mean – I haven’t been to Gamla Stan, although I’ve heard good things and your photos are lovely. But it’s easy if somewhere’s busy or you’re tired or it’s raining (or swelteringly hot) to just not feel in the mood.
I definitely got museum fatigue interrailing round Europe, especially by the end of Italy (art, art, art, art, art…wonderful individually but just TOO much). And there are a couple of European cities where a few unfortunate encounters/unpleasant people totally took the shine off the whole place.
#citytripping
Cathy (MummyTravels) recently posted…City Tripping #61
Haha – I got I bit over cathedrals in Italy…there’s so many. Hate it when people taint a travelling experience too…sorry to hear that (but I think I need to hear those stories sometime!)
Losing your travel sparkle is definitely a ‘thing’ and has happened to me too. I do hate anywhere that’s crowded or overhyped – Santorini was a good example for me. Perhaps Gamla Stan would have appealed more if you’d been able to spend a couple of days there and soak in the atmosphere more slowly. I still haven’t been but will remember to plan a visit when it’s quieter. #citytripping
Clare Thomson (Suitcases and Sandcastles) recently posted…Faraway Files #14
Yes, I wished we’d revisited it at a quieter time. I am sure we’ll go again though. I still haven’t been to Santorini – so overhyped – I am so sure I will only be disappointed.
I totally appreciate your honesty. I enjoyed Gamla Stan, a relaxed coffee, the palace, changing of the guards, then I went on a boat trip, met some fellow backpackers who took me to a restaurant for reindeer. I love days like that. #citytripping
tots2travel recently posted…Ardanaiseig Hotel – Visiting Scotland’s Most Romantic Hotel with … Toddlers
Sounds fabulous! And certainly more relaxed than our trip.
There have definitely been days when traveling that I wasn’t in the mood, however, looking back at the photos I often think: “Hey, these photos look better than I remember feeling.” The Nobel Museum sounds interesting! Your photo of the soldiers boarding the bus, is a fun behind the scenes moment! Until recently Sweden had never really been on my radar, but lately I’ve been considering a visit…
Hilary recently posted…Day Trippers: Chateau de Versailles
Yes, exactly! I look back a lot and think that. There were a lot of great things about Sweden and it’s very family-fries my.
Whoops!! I forgot to mention #citytripping
Hilary recently posted…Day Trippers: Chateau de Versailles
Crowded streets and feeling too hot would have made me uncomfortable and irritable too, that said Gamla Stan looks wonderful and your photographic eye certainly didn’t let you down. #citytripping
Fiona Cambouropoulos recently posted…Solving The Odd Sock Dilemma
Thank you Fiona. I didn’t take half as many photos there as I normally would which isn’t like me at all!
Yup.. travel fatigue once kicked in when I was in Seoul. But am determined to revisit one day to rediscover it. Visiting through #citytripping
Travel fatigue is totally a thing. I would love to go to Seoul.
Sorry you had an unpleasant experience! There are so many factors to be considered when traveling – especially with children – that we can’t beat ourselves up if the experience is less than what we were expecting. One time we were in Florence and it rained all day and it was awful! #citytripping
Ha, it rained when I was in Florence…I think it does that a lot! It wasn’t so bad but a few factors that meant it lost its sheen a little.
Well, at least you had sunny weather! I am happy when the sun is out. I understand your feeling. Sometimes, we do not connect with certain places or the gleam of a place is shadowed by a series of events and i. For example, I am not a fan of Barcelona even when half of the world adores the city. #citytripping
Ruth recently posted…A Perfect Day in Toledo: Travel Itinerary
You are the second person on this post to make that comment about Barcelona, so you are not the only one!
Stockholm is on my list of places to visit I have heard its great with kids. I know what you mean though sometimes one museum/cathedral can blend into another! How fortunate you were to have such great weather. If we go to the Gamla Stan we’ll definitely try to beat the crows – great tips for getting the most out of it. Thanks for hosting #citytripping
Wherejogoes recently posted…LONDON HMS BELFAST WITH KIDS
Ha, well I totally wasn’t expecting the good weather but it was a wonderful change. Stockholm is really great for kids! With Gamla Stan, I think beating the crowds is the key! Thanks for stopping by x
Oookay… I’m going to be contributing to the crowd-from-cruise-ships in June. I had put the old town as one of the places to visit during our cruise stopover in Stockholm but now I’m thinking twice. I’m terrified of the heat (don’t ask me why I’m living in Singapore then). But the change of guard parade looks interesting. It sounds like so much hard work (crowded, hot, not stroller friendly) just to catch the change of Guards though. Maybe I should just skip it and spend more time at Vasa Museum and Junibacken and find some nice Fika. Yup, that sounds more like me. Thanks for the warning about the old town! :p
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Hey Lee, I don’t think you’ll have an issue with the heat…not in Stockholm…still nothing like Singapore! I think you could fit in all three. I loved the Vasa but if you miss the queues, will only need an hour there. I will be writing my post on Junibacken at some point…Mrs T loved it but you don’t have to spend too long there. I don’t want to put you off the Old Town too much, it is good to see. I’ve seen the changing of the guards in a few other places so wasn’t too devastated we missed it. x
Your photos make Stockholm look lovely! I have definitely visited places that I didn’t love, and it can be hard to get over the disappointment.
It seems to happen to us all at some point!
There are a few places that totally underwhelmed me – Bologna, Florence (I feel like the only one on that!) and Vienna. My daughter was ill when we were in Vienna – she was 9 and we were backpacking around Europe – I think she was tired and after a lot of travelling sometimes I think you do get a little travel fatigue. Saying that I have tried Florence twice and both times though ‘Nope!’
I prefer cities in Europe in the winter as I have to be on the go and with the heat and the sheer amount of people summer can put me off!
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That’s so interesting about Florence. I had a real ‘wow’ moment with it but I think I went without doing much research and was totally knocked sideways by the Duomo. I agree Bologna wasn’t as amazing as I thought it was going to be but was still impressed. I think cities in the winter is a great idea.
The beauty of the Scandinavian countries is exceptional! I’m madly in love with Stockholm. Thanks a bunch for sharing your experience, Elizabeth!
That’s great to hear. There’s so much to discover in Scandinavia!
Oh Liz, don’t worry about it, it happens to all of us 🙂 I felt the same way when I visited Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. I felt “meh” during the trip, as such, till now, I haven’t really quite connected with Vietnam though a lot of people sing praises of the country. Perhaps a second visit might change my perspective and experience. Similarly, hope your second visit to Gamla Stan in the future will be more fun – I have read posts by other travellers about Gamla Stan, it seems a lovely place to visit 🙂 #citytripping
Thank Kat, glad it’s just me. It was a real ‘meh’ moment. I know a couple of people who went to Vietnam and didn’t feel it. I really want to go there and see it for myself. x
Oh it’s a pity you didn’t enjoy :/ I have such good memories of Stockholm!! Maybe you have to go back one day 😉 But then there are some places that for one reason or another, one just doesn’t feel, even though they’re beautiful! I had that feeling with St. Petersburg… It was wonderful, but I just couldn’t feel the city..
Umberta recently posted…A night out in Salento, Colombia
It’s really interesting to hear from other travellers which city they didn’t gel with. I really liked parts of Stockholm but I was just a little underwhelmed with the Old Town when I was visiting.
I know you’re going to think I’m crazy but I just don’t get the hype about Barcelona! It’s not that I don’t appreciate the good bits but maybe it was my mood also, I just couldn’t overlook the bad bits. Strange how that happens eh. Buggy pushing is rather annoying when they’re little though, my youngest is 8 now so I’m way past that and I don’t miss it one bit! #citytripping
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You are not the only one to say that about Barcelona! I loved all the Gaudi stuff but your mood really can affect perceptions. Hope you get to rediscover it for the better sometime!
I am sorry that you did not enjoy Gamla Stan. It used to be one of the places I loved walking around in Stockholm as a student. I do understand what you say about feeling underwhelmed about some place that you expected more from. I felt that when I visited Taj Mahal. The crowds and heat took away a lot of my enjoyment of the place. #CityTripping
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I think crowds have a lot to answer for! I have heard that a bit about the Taj Mahal. I’m sure if I went at a less busy time I would have a completely different experience.
I hope you were able to find the quiet streets too. Otherwise it is too crowded. #citytripping
beatravelling recently posted…Great Barrier Reef!!
We found some!
Wow! One brave mum. I thought I was mad for travelling with kids, but it seems I’m not the only one!!
Hehe – it’s got to be done. I guess we’re both mad! x
One place I’d recommend to anyone interested in photography is Stockholm’s waterfront photography museum. It has a lovely, family-friendly cafe.
Thanks for the tip Stuart.