A Day In Dijon, The Capital of Burgundy

Mustard. That’s what springs to mind when I think of Dijon. How about you? As we were to discover though, Dijon brings far more to the table than a spicy condiment. In fact my husband and I were surprised at how picturesque and historical the French city is and congratulated ourselves on choosing it as an overnight stay on our way home from the Alps.

The capital of Burgundy and the centre of mustard making during the Middle Ages, Dijon is conveniently located 200 miles from where we were skiing in Morzine and 350 miles from Calais. It meant there would be a longer leg the other end but we were willing to get up early and hit the road with the destination being home!

Our overnight stay was at a hotel which used to be an old monastery with parts dating back to the 1300s. Appart’hôtel Odlays Les Cordeliers opened it in July 2015. It felt a little bit strange staying in such a beautiful and religious building which could easily be a tourist attraction in itself rather than a mid-range hotel.

Appart'hôtel Odlys Les Cordeliers

It was perfect for what we needed and a bargain at £80 for the night. A large living room with TV and kitchenette with a high chair, small dishwasher, hob and microwave. There was a sizeable bedroom with a double bed where we all slept, Mrs T on the pull out bed and Cheeky in a travel cot.

Appart'hôtel Odlys Les Cordeliers

Looking up were the stone ceilings of the old monastery while we looked out onto its ancient walls. We ate breakfast in a room with stained glass window while the courtyard was very impressive.

Appart'hôtel Odlys Les Cordeliers

The historical accommodation was hint of what was waiting for us in Dijon where a mix of Medieval and Renaissance architectures greeted us. Historically, Dijon was a wealthy city which has left a lasting legacy. Walking through the old town there was no shortage of grand buildings with an array of high-end shops to boot. If it hadn’t been so very, VERY cold (temperatures had plummeted to -6 degrees Celsius) it would have been a delight to wander around, take photos and get a lost in the streets of half-timbered housing.

Dijon, France

Instead, we retreated inside to the Museè des Beaux-Arts which proved to be a good move. One of the oldest museums in France (founded in 1787), it is located inside the opulent Palais des Ducs where the Dukes of Burgandy lived during the 11th to 15th centuries.

Palais des Ducs, Dijon

The palace is now home to the City Hall as well as the Museum of Fine Art. Newly renovated in 2013, the museum is free to enter and houses a collection of medieval art, sculptures and European paintings from Renaissance to modern times. There was a glass elevator which whizzed us up the three floors.

We went to the first floor to begin which took us to view the tombs of some of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, including Philip the Bold and John the Fearless. Looking down at the room from up high, Mrs T wondered where the ‘chairs’ were. I am assuming she meant thrones.

Tombs in the Museum of Fine Art, Dijon

She was also interested by the religious paintings. With the Christmas story still fresh in her memory, she could understand and engage a little with the art although I gave her a very brief analysis as to why Jesus was nailed to a cross! To fend off more questions, I explained she would learn more about it at Easter. Lets tackle one Christian festival at a time!

As we viewed some of the paintings of Mary and child, she queried where Joseph was. Good question and she had a point. Always interesting to see things through the eyes of a four-year-old!

We did come across some knights’ armour though in the section on Burgundy during the Middle Ages which made my husband pay a bit more attention, especially with various crossbows and swords on display. I was quite tickled by the varying sizes of the suits with the one on the far left looking like it belonged to a very stout, middle-aged man.

Knights armour at the Museum of fine art, Dijon

If it had been up to my daughter and I, we would have kept looking a bit longer but the hubby was bored and rightly pointed out that it would be getting dark soon. So we ventured outside to see some more of Dijon.

We got at a glance at the Grand Theatre and the spectacular Church of Notre Dame.

The church of Notre Dame, Dijon

We headed along the Rue de La Liberte, the upmarket part of town. Then we saw it. The carousel! It was with some relief as my daughter had been asking where it was. Assuming there would be one, it had been a slight bargaining tool to her walking the streets of Dijon.

The Old Town, Dijon

Complete with music, Mrs T’s mode of transport on this particular carousel was an aeroplane. She was even happy to share it with a little boy.

Carousel in Dijon

Next to the carousel was a bustling cafe, the Comptoir des Colonies. A quintessential French ‘Salon de thé’ with aged green seats, the tiniest tables and barely enough room to fit a pram. But we managed. My reward? A jug of hot chocolate! It was rich, delicious and warmed my cockles while my husband declared the vin chaud was the best he had tasted. Mrs T’s waffle wasn’t half bad either.

Hot chocolate and waffles at Comptoir des Colonies, Dijon

The cold temperatures began to bite and not wanting to wait around in the cold for another two hours until the bistros and restaurants opened we headed back to the hotel to use the self-catering facilities. A wise choice. It had been a long day and we were in need of a warm room and early night. I sent Paul out for some food where he saw more of the city lit up at night, including le Grand hotel la Cloche which appeared to have a light display of its own. Meanwhile I delved into a bottle of Burgundy. Obviously.

Grand hotel la Cloche, DijonWhen the weather is warmer (even the locals were complaining about how cold it was), we’ve already decided to return to Dijon. Next time we will partake in some mustard tasting. We didn’t have any while we were there. Perhaps we will explore one of the many wine routes too. Dijon is a city of surprises and worth a visit. It also has the smallest buses I have ever seen!

Bus in Dijon

If you enjoyed this article, you can download it as an article app – along with other city guides – at GPSmyCity

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A day in Dijon with kids, Burgundy, France

Lou Messugo
Wander Mum


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Wander Mum

I've always loved to travel so when my two daughters came along, I didn't stop. Travelling as a family can have its ups and downs but I love showing my children the world and helping others navigate travelling with children in tow.

93 Comments
  1. Too funny. We stopped over in Dijon on the way to Switzerland last year and stayed in the same hotel and had rides on the beautiful carousel. I thought it was a lovely city and would like to go back someday.
    Katy recently posted…Faraway Files #12My Profile

  2. I love finding unexpected delights on the way to a destination or on the way home – it can add so much to a holiday. I think you chose so well finding this hotel in Dijon.That jug of hot chocolate – wow!
    #citytripping

    1. I totally wasn’t expecting a jug of hot chocolate, it was incredible! I agree, it really does add an extra dimension and forces you to go somewhere new. That’s the beauty of driving too.

  3. Haha ! I agree, each time someone days Dijon I picture the pot of mustard that sits on my fridge ! £80 is really cheap and it looks nice.. and you have a kitchenette ! I love it when on holiday so you are not too stressed by schedule and you can eat whenever really. It looks like a very nice town full of history #citytripping
    Gin recently posted…An afternoon in Biddulph Grange GardenMy Profile

    1. Thanks Gin, having a kitchenette made things a bit less stressful. I was impressed with the accommodation and the price. Bargain! Hopefully you will look at your pot of mustard a little differently from now on.

  4. Dijon for me also instantly brings to mind the mustard. Enjoyed reading about your stay in the city. Especially loved your choice of accommodation at the old monastery. Would certainly love to stay there, if I visit. #CityTripping

  5. I didn’t know about this city. There are so many in France that I have yet to discover. I think mustard tasting here would be so much fun! 🙂 #citytripping

  6. Burgundy is somewhere I would love to see more of – I had an overnight stay there years ago, on the way back from Nice but we didn’t get chance to explore much. Love the sound of your converted monastery and some great facilities too. #citytripping
    Cathy (Mummytravels) recently posted…City Tripping #59My Profile

  7. we never made it down to Dijon when we live din Paris. I had no idea it was a medieval city. It was nice to see pictures of it because I’ve never come across a post about Dijon. #citytripping

    1. It’s always good to be able to write about a place not many people have written about before. Shame you didn’t get the chance to visit Dijon. It’s a great city.

  8. “Perhaps we will explore one of the many wine routes too.” – it’s the capital of Burgundy – it’s a MUST! I haven’t visited Dijon but it’s definitely on my list now – you’ve definitely sold it to me! Also, I’ve never driven to France but you make it look so easy (and you can get more wine in the boot than you can in your flight luggage!)

    1. Exactly Heidi! Driving is the way forward…especially when you have a chauffeur, I mean husband, to do the driving. Dijon is a must and I should have said next time I will definitely go wine touring!

  9. Dijon looks like a pretty town and yeah the first thought that came to my mind was mustard 🙂 My, minus 6 degrees?! Wow, experiencing 10 degrees was freezing for me, I can’t imagine how extremely cold -6 degrees is. Hope you return to Dijon during the warmer months so you get the chance the place in-depth, and try the wines 🙂 #citytripping

  10. We travel down the A31 at least once a year on the way to visit family in the Ardeche region and have only ever managed a lunch stop in Dijon, not an over night stay. We normally opt for Troyes or Beaune (which are also lovely). It looks lovely though and that hotel looks fab!
    My kids always seek out the carousel in any French town we visit!
    #citytripping
    Daisy – DaisLikeThese recently posted…Bruges at Christmas with KidsMy Profile

  11. It sounds like this former monastery is the place to be! Dijon sounds wonderful — I’d love to go for a mustard tasting and wander round. The bottle of Burgundy sounds alright as well. x #citytripping

  12. Everyone seems to be in Burgundy these days, I’m feeling a little left out! Dijon looks so quaint and picturesque..I’m a huge mustard person so will have to go some day. Those buses ARE small! #citytripping

    1. I couldn’t get over the buses…coming from a city like London I found it hilarious but I guess it makes total sense for the narrow streets and smaller population. You could probably fit 12 people in!

  13. Just love your article on Burgundy’s capital and look forward to seeing you again when the weather warms up
    Next time you can sip a Kir in the sunshine ☀️

  14. We spent a day in Dijon and loved it too Elizabeth. Highlights for us were the fabulous mustard – I lugged a ridiculous amount of the stuff back to Australia – and the Owl Trail walking tour, which is an entertaining way to explore Dijon (although you’d want better weather). #AllAboutFrance
    Janelle Gould recently posted…The French Dedication To QualityMy Profile

  15. I’ve spent a night in Dijon a few years ago on the way back from Italy to Paris where we were living at the time. It does seem to be remarkably well placed for over night stops but we also agreed it would be a good destination in its own right. We were also there in extreme weather, in our case it was a heatwave, so we didn’t manage to see much other than the gorgeous Hospices building (with stunning roof) (a historical museum now not a hospital!) before we collapsed into our hotel’s pool. I wonder if any of us will actually go back….there are always too many new places to explore! Thanks for linking up to #AllAboutFrance
    Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…Sunday Photo – mountain viewMy Profile

    1. I just realised I must have been having a senior moment as it wasn’t in Dijon that all this happened, but in Baune!!! The famous Hospices are in Baune not Dijon so no wonder you didn’t visit them when I asked you elsewhere if you’d been (Instagram?) The only time I’ve been to Dijon was to visit a nephew in hospital and that wasn’t in the centre of the town!
      Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…What to do in Paris with teenagersMy Profile

      1. Her hee! Well you must revisit Dijon ! We’ve actually spent a day in Beaune, so I’m familiar with the Hospice building you did go up – although we didn’t go in – I think it may have been closed. Must go back, if you think it’s worth it!

  16. Our visit to Dijon was also on a very cold day but we discovered the ‘owl walk’ http://www.destinationdijon.com/fr/dijon-visite-parcours_chouette.htm. which the tourist office has put together and is a set of 22 clues that take you all over the town. My children loved it and I would not hesitate to recommend it to everyone who goes. As for the mustard: yes, we did buy a pot and were told that when it ran out we should bring it back for a refill. The refill isn’t free but, not paying for another pot makes sense financially and environmentally. Other than that, the shop itself is fascinating with lots of different taste testing options. I hope that you make it back! #AllAboutFrance

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