As you near its sparkling lake, you can see why the Alpine city of Annecy has earned the nickname the ‘Pearl Of The French Alps’. Then, as you wander through the narrow streets of its old town intersected by canals, the description of ‘Venice of Alps’ is just as apt.
But it hasn’t always been so shiny and clean. It’s hard to believe that in the 1950s and 60s Annecy’s picturesque lake was used as a sewage dumping ground by the city and its surrounding villages and towns. After cleaning up its act, it is now one of the purest lakes around and a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.
I first visited Annecy a few years ago with my husband. He knew the lakeside city well having spent many summers there as a child. I was instantly taken away by the beauty of the ancient city: its azure lake, the statuesque mountains and quaint cobbled streets. We drank wine at the side of the canal, took a pedal boat out on the lake and enjoyed the blistering sunshine.
We recently returned for a day trip with our three-year-old daughter during a holiday to Morzine. Around an hour and a half drive away, I was interested to see what the city offered for families. Although busy, we managed to find a space in a car park just opposite the lake and were immediately treated to the stunning views.
A large open space surrounds the lake where people were enjoying the August sunshine. It oozed an atmosphere of fun and relaxation. The sound of children laughing and playing floated upon the cooling breeze. We followed the sound to a playground where Mrs T instantly ran. She could have played for hours in the ‘pirate ship’ and got a new record for the amount of times a child has zoomed down a slide.
After enticing her away, we wandered away from the lake, along one of the canals towards the old town. We soon came across another sight very pleasing to my daughter’s eyes. Like many French cities and towns, Annecy has an almost compulsory carousel. It’s a good one, complete with music.
Moving into the old town, we had a snoop around its cobbled streets. Although one of the oldest inhabited areas in the French Alps (with recent archeological digs dating settlements back to 3100BC), Annecy came to prominence in the 12th century when the Count of Geneva moved his court there. Much of the architecture in the old city dates from the 15th Century when it became part of the Savoy territory. Today, it is the capital of the Haute-savoie region of southwestern France.
If our bellies hadn’t started making loud noises, I would have investigated more thoroughly Annecy’s collection of shops, churches and its castle which has parts dating back to the 12th century. Instead, we headed to the busy waterfront where medieval buildings look down on Annecy’s canals, market sellers entice with their wares and restaurants spill onto the pavements. Navigating with a buggy is possible in the August crowds but you may have to be firm (and slower tourists may well get nip on their ankles).
After stopping for a bite to eat and finding a ice cream shop, we headed back to the city’s focal point – its lake. Now I have to admit, my husband had to use a fair of persuasion to get me to agree to hire a motor boat on the lake. I’m not huge fan of small, water-based vessels after feeling sick a few too many times out on the sea. But Mrs T was keen and so we clambered on as we took some quick instructions from the attendant on how to drive the thing. Then we were off. Left in charge of a small motor boat on our own.
Mrs T found the experience very exciting with various references to daddy being the ‘captain’ and plenty of giggles as we lapped up the sunshine and gazed out at the beautiful mountain views. I’m glad I was persuaded to go out on the lake which was a hive of activity. Taking it in turns to captain the boat, it was good fun with my daughter pretending to take the wheel too.
We did though get a couple of hoots from a bigger vessel after possibly getting in its way and I hollered to my husband to ‘slow down’ after he got a bit overexcited. After around 45 minutes we made it back in one piece and although the sickness had not emerged I was glad to be back on solid ground.
Check out the film I made of our trip. Does Annecy deserve the title ‘Pearl of the French Alps’?
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I just can’t believe how crystal clear the water is! Absolutely stunning (esp in the sunshine). You really can’t beat a traditional carousel wherever in the world you may be 😀
It was stunning…especially considering it used to be a dumping ground. Carousels are an absolute winner…my daughter loves them but I’m glad she can go on them on her own now as they just make me dizzy.
beautiful town!the water is so clean I can’t believe it was full of sewer before!
Tanja (the Red phone box travels) recently posted…Beach snaps V
this is such a stunning area! I love taking boat trips when we’re abroad so it looks perfect to me #citytripping
Rebecca | AAUBlog recently posted…Benidorm: More Than Just the TV Show?
It’s gorgeous Rebecca.
The motorboat ride looks like it was lots of fun. Enjoyed reading your post and seeing your short video of your family trip.
Ahila recently posted…Helga’s Folly
Aw thanks Ahila. Glad you enjoyed it.
What a beautiful lake! Do you have to do anything special to hire a boat – licensing or experience with one perhaps?
Ava @ My Meena Life recently posted…Love Locks in Europe.
Nope – no previous experience necessary! Just a briefing beforehand. You couldn’t go out too far and it it wasn’t particularly speedy.
How fun!! I’ve always wanted to visit here!! How strange that the lake was a dumping ground and now its practically crystal clear!! #CityTripping
Lolo recently posted…Your 7 Day Road Trip Through Austria
Really strange! You should definitely visit Lolo.
That sounds like such a fun experience on the Annecy lake! I’m glad you didn’t get lake sick though. I bet your daughter will always remember this trip! There is nothing quite like being on a boat on the lake in the summer! 🙂
Mandy recently posted…Sunset on Folly Beach
Aw – I hope she does – she enjoys looking back at the video. Yes, very glad lake sickness didn’t strike and I could enjoy the experience.
Annecy is such a pretty place isn’t it Elizabeth? I love your sunny pictures. We were there in winter and the snow gives it a whole other magical quality. Amazing food in that region too! Cant stop thinking about our pastry run there.. I think my dad had 3 croissants when mum wasn’t looking! In his defence they were amazing.
It’s gorgeous, Katy. Haha – I bet the croissants were delicious. I’d like to see it in the winter – am sure it’s absolutely delightful.
What a lovely surprise – I had no idea about Annecy and how pretty it is.
We have the same arguments when the idea of hiring boats is mentioned – I catastrophize and husband thinks he is better at steering than he actually is!
#citytripping
Trish @ Mum’s Gone To recently posted…Mum’s Gone to Wales: Snowdonia
Haha – glad it’s not just me then. Same with my husband…we came very close to a ferry!
I missed Annecy during my cross-country trip around France a few years ago, it was either Annecy or Strasbourg and with the flip of a coin – Strasbourg won to be included in my itinerary. Lol. I’m sure I’d get there someday, probably not rent a boat though because my seasickness is probably much worst than yours. :p
Noemi of Pinay Flying High recently posted…Athens, Greece | How To Visit The Acropolis Like A Boss.
Ah, you were so close. I’ve never been to Strasbourg but definitely try and get to Annecy another time. x
I love Annecy and especially that spot in the Old Town by the river. May try and get back there next week when we are nearby Geneva.
It’s such a great place to go. Enjoy your holiday! x
To go on a boat on a lake is one of the most beautiful activities in Annecy, you did well to go! 😉
And Morzine is a very nice place too! It’s great in winter for skiing as well if you do ski!
xx
Umberta
http://thesecretlifeofanactress.blogspot.fr/
Umberta recently posted…Welcome to Biarritz
Thanks – it was a great thing to do. Yes, we do ski! Love Morzine in the winter as well. Thanks for stopping by x
I’d never heard of Annecy but I am thoroughly impressed. I love how clean & clear the water is especially after hearing about its polluted past. Renting a motorboat sounds fun but I think I would have been so worried about crashing!
Lauren Bishop recently posted…A City Of Inspiration: Dubrovnik, Croatia
Haha – well, they don’t go very fast! It was fun and Annecy is even more beautiful in real life than it looks in photos and on video.
I went to a wedding there about 14 years ago, and we were blown away by its beauty. We wakebaorded there – the water was divine #mondayescapes
Megan – Truly Madly Kids recently posted…Exploring London: Mayfield Lavender Farm
How wonderful to go to a wedding there! A fabulous setting.
I had never heard of this place, but now I want to go! I seems like the most charming place – I love the carousel!
Kit Graham recently posted…Glacier Climbing in Iceland
I thoroughly recommend!
Looks like the weather was beautiful as well =) Carousels livened up any place and having one in the park like that surely lifted everyone’s spirits. I bet my children would want to go several rounds on it. Provided it isn’t that expensive! Oh it is so awesome that European Lakes allow rental of boats without a driver. We were at Lake Como last year and was surprised that they allowed us to go out on our own with just 10 minutes of On The Job Training. In Asia, we will always have to be guided by a licensed boatman should we go on any rivers or lakes. #citytripping
My daughter adores carousels! Think it was a couple of euros a go. I was surprised at how quickly we were allowed to take the motor boat out after minimal training – although they don’t go very fast.
What a stunning place – it boggles the mind who could look at an incredibly clear lake like that and use it to dump rubbish! The old town buildings are beautiful as well – and I love the video, especially Captain Mrs T on the boat #citytripping
Cathy (MummyTravels) recently posted…A love letter to the Great British seaside
Thanks Cathy! She loved it. So cute looking back at videos of them…how they talk etc. Very bizarre the whole sewage thing…just bonkers!
I went to an event recently where they were promoting the area around Annecy. I was so interested then, but seeing your photos of that beautiful lake, just wow. And the canal – I could just see ourselves having lunch there. Oh no, another destination to add to the list!
Ting at My Travel Monkey recently posted…Monday Escapes #40
I think you’d really love it there Ting and there are so many great places in the surrounding area to explore…there are just too many places to go to!!
Fantastisk! Really beautiful. I did not know of this town before now. Looks like an amazing spot – love that clear clear clear lake. Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin
It’s fantastic Erin. The lake is stunning.
Annecy looks beautiful…reminds me of the Italian Lakes. 🙂 #citytripping
Yes, I know what you mean Stephanie, it does a bit. I guess it’s not so far away from the Italian lakes.
This looks lovely! We are slowly exploring Europe, it looks like I need to add this one to the list as the boys LOVE water activities. Its nice that the town has a few things to offer as well. #CityTripping
Elizabeth Newcamp recently posted…Driving the Basque Coast from San Sebastian to Bilbao
Thank you Elizabeth, it is a really family-friendly place and lots to do – definitely recommend.
Love that you can rent a motor boat here! I don’t think there’s a place like that in the U.S. without a license. So fun! What a picturesque town – looks lovely. And that water – amazing to think it was a sewage dump not so long ago! #citytripping
Corey with fifi + hop recently posted…Westchester’s Hidden Gem: Untermyer Park and Gardens
Haha – I bet – health and safety and all that. It is a gorgeous place and interesting to see it from a different perspective when on the lake.
The walkway along the canal looks pretty narrow. I can imagine nipping a lot of people’s ankles if I brought my stroller there! But I LOVE the architecture and colours in the area. #CityTripping
Bumble Bee Mum recently posted…Froth – Artistic Fusion Dining @ Ascott Raffles Place (Singapore)
Haha – think I may have snagged some. The architecture and geology certainly compliment each other.
Such a beautiful place and sounds like you all had a lovely time.
Cathy recently posted…Amelia, Umbria
Thanks Cathy, it was great fun.
Everything looks so beautiful! That blue water, that pretty town, makes me want to hop on a plane to France right now 😀
Vlad recently posted…An “Unusual” Trip: From Scotland To Poland And Germany
Haha – do it Vlad!
It’s astonishing what this lake was once used for. That an idyllic spot. Mrs T is a very cute captain! #citytripping
Claire at Tin Box Traveller recently posted…Going places pushchairs only dare with a Rockin’ Baby sling
Aww thanks Claire – she loved it!
This place looks like paradise to me! We spent a week in the Vosges Mountains with day trips to Colmar and Strasbourg and I can imagine doing the same in or near Annecy!
Mandy recently posted…July: The Month That Was
Oh lovely! It’s a great area to visit!
Looks like a lovely, little place. Thanks!
beatravelling recently posted…Snow White Roll, 911 Fire Roll, Darth Vader Roll: This Sushi You Gotta Try!
It is!
I think it deserves pearl of the Alps but I do get a bit sick of hearing Venice of the such and such….it seems everywhere with a canal becomes a Venice! But enough of a grump, I love Annecy, its setting is idyllic. It was the first place that convinced me I could have a summer holiday away from the sea (in the days when I lived inland and longed to be beside water). We spent a wonderful week in a villa with a jetty into the water with loads of friends and loads of kids a few years ago. It was magical. There’s a fabulous cycle path that goes along an old disused railway line along one side of the lake which makes for a really peaceful way to get into the town and back. Glad you had fun on the boat, I’m a sucker for boats and try to get out on them as often as possible. Reading this makes me want to go back to Annecy again sooner rather than later, thanks for linking to #AllAboutFrance
Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…All About France #20
Haha – I know what you mean about the ‘venice’ tag – I keep hearing it a lot at the moment too! You trip there does sound fantastic and I like the sound of th cycle path – thanks for the tip. I’m sure it won’t be long before we are there again. Thanks for hosting #allaboutfrance
Thanks for highlighting Annecy to visit in the summer and with such lovely photos. It looks great and goes on my list of places to visit. It should be doable for a daytrip from where I am too. Just need an opportunity now!
#AllAboutFrance
A day trip would be perfect!
Oh wow that looks and sounds absolutely stunning!! I always want to visit everywhere you mention, we are hoping to start planning some more excursions with the boys soon and would love to take them on a little French road trip one year definately one to add to the list! Thanks for hosting #citytripping xx
Mudpie Fridays recently posted…Fishers Farm Park
Thank you Clare! We just did a French road trip and had a great time. There are so many fab places to visit but Annecy is pretty special.
Beautiful photos of a wonderful location. I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Emily!
There’s a huge outdoor volleyball tournament in Annecy every year and I’ve yet to go – hoping for spring 2017!! I’ve only heard wonderful things about Annecy, and your post continues to confirm that! Beautiful photos and words, as always, Elizabeth!
Christy Swagerty (whatupswags) recently posted…Video: TV Dingolfing Preview
Aww, thanks Christy! Hoping you get to go to the tournament… great opportunity to visit Annecy – it’s a great place. x
I haven’t been to Annecy since a school trip in the late 1980’s where I experienced my first ever hole in the ground public toilet! Would like to go back one day though. #allaboutfrance
FrenchVillage Jacqui recently posted…September arrives once again
Oooh – now that’s an experience! Hopefully there’s none of them left in Lyon! You should definitely go back! x
I used to live a short drive from Annecy and was always amazed by how beautiful it is! Your photos do it justice, and your time spent there sounds lovely!!
Thank you! Must have been great to live so close.
My husband and boys head down to The Alps each year to ski (I don’t ski any more) so maybe they should drop me off in the lovely Annecy for the week and they can head down mad mountain slopes whilst I enjoy this beautiful town! #AllAboutFrance
Oooh – that is a brilliant idea, Rosie!