Sri Lanka: A 12-Day Luxury Itinerary

Sri Lanka has opened up hugely to tourism in the last few years and it is a place that needs to be discovered – before everyone else does! We had an incredible time when we visited in January 2016. I recommend it as a destination for all: young, old, couples, families. I was 18-weeks pregnant when we went, the three of us: my husband our three-year-old daughter and I. So what did we do and where did we go? Well, we didn’t do it by halves. It was our main holiday of the year and we chose luxury hotels for most of journey, a splurge but far cheaper than the equivalent in Europe. Sri Lanka has accommodation for all budgets though and it is a very affordable country to visit.

Day 1 – Negombo

After a 10-and-a-half-hour night flight with Sri Lankan Airlines, we arrived at Colombo airport. Due to time restraints, we decided to skip the Sri Lankan capital and stay in Negombo, a city just 15 minutes from the airport. The fourth largest city in Sri Lanka, it sits on a beach and is known for its fishing industry. Sadly we didn’t get the chance to explore.

Accommodation: We stayed at the boutique hotel Wallawwa for just one night. With colonial touches, lush tropical vegetation in its large gardens, excellent food and a relaxing atmosphere, we could have stayed far longer. For children, there is a swimming pool, sports equipment including badminton and croquet and afternoon tea is served daily. My daughter loved the banana cake! Bliss after a long flight. Highly recommend! Book your room here.

Day 2 – Kandy

Having booked a transfer with the Wallawwa hotel we headed off in a large chauffeur-driven vehicle to the lakeside city of Kandy which took around three hours. Sri Lanka’s second city, Kandy, is fairly busy but compact.

One of the top sites to visit is the Temple of the Tooth which contains a tooth from the buddha, hidden away in a casket. It is best to visit the temple during prayers. If you go to Kandy during July/August you will see Esala Perahera, a 10-day festival which includes a procession with drummers, dancers and up to 50 elephants to honour the sacred tooth.

From Kandy many go to the Knuckles mountain range and visit the sacred mountain, Sigiriya, which you can climb. If we didn’t have Mrs T and I wasn’t pregnant we would have gone. We did sample some traditional Kanydan dancing though. Held in a small village hall we weren’t sure what to expect but were amazed at the mesmerising dance, drumming, hot coal walking and fire eaters! You can read more about our day in Kandy here and check out the dancing below.

Accommodation: We stayed at the modern Ozo hotel which met all our needs. We had a large, comfortable room. There was a good restaurant, swimming pool and roof top bar with wonderful views over Kandy. That means it IS up a hill. We got a took tuk-tuk back up in the evening. A good hotel to stay with or without children.

Day 3 – 5 – The Sri Lankan Hills

After one night in Kandy, it was off to the Sri Lankan hills. We had intended to get the train to experience the picturesque journey from Kandy to Hatton. Unfortunately, we were unable to book tickets online from the UK. After failing to get tickets at Kandy train station, we booked another car transfer through the hotel we were due to visit. Tip: Get tickets through a tour operator or go to Kandy station early in the morning on the day you want to travel (6am).

The journey by car gave us just as stunning views. Climbing the winding hill roads, we were surrounded by lush green tea plantations. Travelling by car in Sri Lanka is certainly an experience in itself but despite the daredevil overtaking, they appear to have some kind of chaotic system. As much, hiring a chauffeur to drive you around is recommended.

As the hill country is at altitude, it is far cooler so bring jumpers and cardigans for the evenings. It is great for hiking with World’s End (best climbed early in the morning) and the scared mountain Adam’s Peak among some of the popular hikes. Due to my pregnancy and the age of Mrs T, we viewed Adam’s Peak from afar during a hike through a tea plantation. Look carefully, it is there!

We spent my birthday in the tea lands which also happened to be the Tamil harvest festival, Thai Pongal. We could hear music and the beat of the drum echoing off the mountains and even encountered the festival ourselves during a short hike.

Accommodation: We stayed in the sumptuous Ceylon Tea Trails hotel where your every whim is catered for. This is luxury on another level. Boasting incredible food with the menu of the day described by the chef every morning, it is no wonder it is part of the Relais-Chateaux brand. The service is excellent, we had a spacious room and unbelievable views. Although there weren’t any other children there, Mrs T had fun and was welcomed and fussed over by the staff. She had plenty of open space to run around and it had a swimming pool too.

Day 6 – 11 – Weligama, south coast

Half-way through our trip we headed to the southern beaches of Sri Lanka. Our destination was Weligama. The journey out of the hills was long and bumpy for the first two and a half hours! It took five hours in total. There is also the option to get a flight in a light aircraft which is quicker but around £300 per person.

You are spoilt for choice in regards to beautiful, sandy beaches on the south coast of Sri Lanka with the waves bringing surfers of all abilities. Mirissa is one of the best for beginners. We also visited Weligama and Matara.

This is the area where you are likely to spot fishermen on stilts. Many of these aren’t actually fishing but pose on the stilts for tourists. Some are genuine but you have to get there early in the morning (we didn’t so I don’t have any pictures). Here’s one of me and Mrs T instead.

We took a day trip to the historical city of Galle, which I would recommend. Around 45-minutes away from Weligama, the fort city gives a great insight into the country’s colonial history with the Dutch, Portuguese and British conquering it at some point. Absorb its surroundings and have a drink at the colonial Amangalla Hotel when you need a rest. Stay at the 5* hotel if you fancy stopping longer (and the budget stretches).

Accommodation: Cape Weligama hotel is one of the best places we have ever stayed. The sister hotel of Ceylon Tea Trails, it was pure luxury. Our villa was huge with a spacious outdoor area while our butler, yes, butler (!) helped us out with whatever we wanted.

Our laundry was included and we had a pool to share with another villa. An extra bonus, it was unoccupied so we had the pool all to ourselves!  Wandering along the coastal path of the hotel which is set upon a hill, we were treated to picturesque views. There is a gym, infinity pool, pool geared towards families and excellent food with a variety of western and Sri Lankan cuisine. Mrs T found some friends to play with and was treated like a princess. I don’t often like returning to the same hotel but I wouldn’t hesitate going here again.

Day 12: Columbo – Home

The journey from Weligama to Columbo airport was one of the most straight forward we experienced in Sri Lanka. Why? There was a motorway! It took less than two hours to get there which compared to the rest of the travel was an absolute dream… just like the Sri Lankan sunsets.

You may also enjoy reading my other posts on Sri Lanka

Discovering Galle’s Colonial Past
A Birthday and festival in the Sri Lanka’s Tea Lands
24 Hours in Kandy
The Temple of the Tooth, Sri Lanka

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