A Taste of Champagne in Epernay with Kids

As a fan of fizz, if there was ever a place in need of a stop-off on a road trip, it is the capital of champagne, Epernay. It also happened to be almost halfway between London and our destination in the French Alps. So it was decided (without any hesitation on my behalf) an overnight stay in Epernay it was to be.

Hôtel de Ville, Epernay

It was not our first visit to Epernay. Over six years ago, we hit the region to source some champagne for our wedding reception. The second time, we were heading to the French Alps by car for our eldest daughter’s first Christmas. And now, shortly after our youngest enjoyed her first Christmas, we found ourselves back in Epernay as a family of four.

It’s not exactly the place you’d think of visiting with children (and after our night tending to a coughing, crying seven-month-old child, our accommodation may think the same) but as a brief stop-off it did the trick.

My husband booked an impressive apartment attached to ‘de Venoge’ champagne house. It stands on the most prestigious street in Epernay, the Avenue de Champagne (the husband did well, didn’t he?). The street houses some of the best-known champagne houses from Mercier to Perrier Jouet and Moet and Chandon.

de Venogue champagne house, Epernay

Our accommodation was the newly opened ‘les Suites de 33’ which has four guest rooms. Each one has a small kitchenette, lounge, main bedroom and bathroom. There was plenty of room for the four of us although the travel cot they provided could have done with an extra mattress as I don’t think it aided Cheeky’s unsettled night’s sleep.

de Venoge champagne guest house

Across the cobbled courtyard (where we could park our car) was the champagne bar. It was where we had breakfast the next morning and where, upon arrival, we enjoyed a welcome glass of its bubbly. After a four-hour drive from London, it was more than welcome. I picked the Extra Brut option, a drier champagne which has less sugar. I actually preferred it compared to the Brut which my husband had. We bought a bottle to enjoy that evening. Mrs T gulped down an orangina.

Wander Mum and Mrs T in the champagne bar

Each champagne manufacturer on the Avenue de Champagne has its own large, majestic building, reflecting the wealth of its product derived from a complex process. Unfortunately, as we were visiting out of season, we didn’t get to do a champagne tour, as they were limited. If you are planning a champagne house tour visit in Epernay, I recommend booking in advance.

One of the few houses open and running tours (although they were fully booked) was the Moet and Chandon building. Its Premier Cru is named after the monk Dom Perignon. Lovers of champagne are indebted to this man who discovered the special technique of making champagne in the 17th century.

Statue of Dom Perignon outside Moet and Chandon champagne house
The complex process involves two fermentation steps using the grapes cultivated from the small region which is allowed to call itself ‘champagne’. There is a reason why champagne is so pricey!

We had a look inside the Moet building and found plenty of glitzy festive displays. There was a sparkling silver Christmas tree and a large golden star which my daughter insisted on having a photo with.
Moet and Chandon champagne house in Epernay

Inside the luxurious shop were bottles of champagne, young and vintage, and a display with the different champagne sizes. You would certainly need a lot of people to open the biggest, a Nebuchadnezzar. I like champagne but not THAT much. And you’d need a big fridge to keep that bad boy chilled!

Moet and Chandon champagne bottles at Epernay

On our way out, we looked up and saw the chandelier was made up from champagne glasses. Well, what else?

Chandelier in Moet and Chandon, Epernay

But it’s down below, underground, where the magic happens. 200 million bottles lie in cellars under the streets of Epernay. The champagne tours take you into the cellars and explain more about how champagne is made.

One of my favourite tipples is Perrier Jouet. Unfortunately it was shut but a photo was definitely in order.

Wander Mum on Avenue de Champagne, Epernay

After wandering the length of the Avenue, we headed into the heart of the town. Aside from the champagne houses, what other things can you do in Epernay? The town is a pretty place with a seasonal ice rink, plenty of shops and a carousel which I was persuaded to go on with my daughter. There are definitely things you can do in Epernay with kids.

Carousel in Epernay

It is a good starting point to explore the champagne region – and as a stop-off to travel further afield – although not a lot of point visiting if you don’t like champagne.

With night drawing in came the need for food. The problem with France and other parts of Europe (Spain and Italy, I’m looking at you), is the lack of restaurants open all day. It’s very hard to find anywhere that serves food when children need it. With bellies rumbling and temperatures plummeting to near freezing, we had to settle on the first place we found which was open and serving food, Le Progres brasserie.

It wasn’t the best. The coup de champagne was great (as you’d expect) but the food very average: an oily omelette, chewy steak and sad-looking salmon tagliatelle which sounded far better on paper. The service from one female waitress was terse with the simplest of requests (like asking for a knife and fork) met with a scowl.

Fortunately, there are plenty of other good restaurants in Epernay. We have eaten very well at the Michelin starred Les Berceaux restaurant on one of our previous visits.

Walking back to our accommodation on the Avenue de Champagne, the name of each champagne house was proudly projected onto the pavement in green and orange hues. Perrier Jouet had gone one step further with a dazzling light display inside the gates of its building. It so impressed Mrs T, she declared it a “disco”.

Returning to our comfortable apartment, we polished off the bottle of champagne not knowing a restless night awaited us. In what was Cheeky’s worst night she has ever had, it ended with my husband driving her around the streets of Epernay to get to sleep (it worked).

No doubt we will visit Epernay again, ensuring we book a champagne tour this time so we can learn first-hand about the work which goes into making the bubbles (and get to sample more of the wares). At one hour long for the Moet tour, I think it would be just about be possible to do the champagne visit with our two children. I would definitely go back to Les Suites de 33 too (if they’ll have us)!

de Venoge champagne house

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Experiencing Epernay,the capital of champagne in a dayLou Messugo

Mini Travellers


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Wander Mum

I've always loved to travel so when my two daughters came along, I didn't stop. Travelling as a family can have its ups and downs but I love showing my children the world and helping others navigate travelling with children in tow.

65 Comments
  1. What an interesting place to visit! I love that you took the kids. We love taking the kids with us and find that they can find things to enjoy about any destination! We have taken them to a winery in Canada. I love the clever like the chandelier made of champagne glasses. That is so cool!

    Sounds like baby had a hard time, but if you were going to have to drive baby around the block to go to sleep…might as well be someplace fantastic, right? 🙂

    1. Haha, exactly…shame it was at 5am! It was a great place to visit and you are so right, there is always something to fascinate children and spot things you may miss. Sparkly gold stars and giant bottles made my eldest very happy.

  2. It looks like such a decedent place to visit. The champagne tours and houses look absolutely fantastic and your accommodation luxurious. Shame about the restless night! It is so difficult to find somewhere decent to eat in Europe with kids, we struggle sometimes in Spain, but at least we have great tapas here! #citytripping
    Topsy Turvy Tribe recently posted…The Olive PickersMy Profile

  3. Pinned! I have honestly never thought about visiting the place where Champagne is made! Now it’s definitely on my radar! France seems to be somewhere we rarely go, as Czech and Austria are much closer to us. I have a ton of places I want to visit in France! I better get on it! #CityTripping
    Lolo recently posted…2016: A Year in ReviewMy Profile

  4. Sorry to hear about your restless night but looks like you enjoyed the rest of your time. The accommodation sounds fab – I will definitely be looking it up!
    We stayed at the B&B of Champagne Ployet Jaquemart, not far from where you were and we all loved it.
    Reims is a fab stop over city too.

  5. Sounds like a great trip to Epernay. I love that breakfast is served with champagne. (What else?!) Also love the champagne themed decor! 🙂 Hopefully, next time you visit, things will go much smoother… #citytripping
    Mandy recently posted…IWSG #1My Profile

  6. Epernay really isn’t so far from where I live, but I don’t think I have ever been there. I have no excuse for that…

    On one hand, sorry to hear about your little hiccups, but on the other I really enjoyed reading about them (hope you take that the right way! ;o) ). The fact is that independent family travel isn’t always silky smooth, but it is almost always rewarding and memorable in the end. Thanks for sharing your experiences! #CityTripping
    Jonny (Daisy the bus) recently posted…Dark places of the MullerthalMy Profile

    1. You are so right Jonny. You take the rough and the smooth with family travel but it is incredibly rewarding in the end. You certainly learn a lot about yourself and your family. Thanks for your lovely comment.

  7. I remember the days of driving babies around till they fell asleep, we’ve done it in many French towns, but possibly not Epernay…Reims yes! What a shame you couldn’t find anywhere nice to eat but luckily you had that lovely room to go back to and a bottle of bubbles! Thanks for linking to #AllAboutFrance
    Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…All About France #24My Profile

  8. Ooh love, lucky there was a river of champagne to get you through the rough nights. Visiting Epernay will be somewhat of a pilgrimage for me so I might do it sans kids but if we cant manage that I am taking your tip on the one hour Moët tour.
    Katy recently posted…Faraway Files #12My Profile

  9. Sounds fab, not the restless night or the driving round town but all the champagne and I love the disco lights too! One for the list. I’ve done fizz tasting in Napa but not champagne in France!

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