Twickenham: Not Just A Rugby Town

Twickenham may not be in favour with England rugby fans at the moment after our exit from the World Cup – soon to be followed by Wales, Scotland and Ireland – but there is more to the home of rugby – than rugby – as I discovered during a walk with my three-year-old daughter on a slightly rainy autumn day.

The crowds from the weekend’s rugby action had gone and with a break in the rain, I felt compelled to explore the area. I’ve written a lot about my adventures to exotic places such as Singapore, Langkawi and Dubai – to name a few – but not so much about my local area.

We started off at a local park – where else? We collected some of the abundant leaves scattered on the floor and my daughter explored the playground. We then had a wander into Twickenham. The high street has the standard shops, chain outlets and isn’t too much to write home about but head towards the river and you come across the quaint, cobbled stones of Church Street which lies just a few short steps away from the river.

After passing St Mary’s church with its Medieval tower,  you come to the River Thames and the sight of Eel Pie island. The small, private island has a big, musical history. It was once home to a famous 19th century hotel which Charles Dickens used to frequent. In the 1920s, the hotel held tea dances and then became a rock and roll hub in the 1960s where everyone from the Rolling Stones to David Bowie, The Who and Eric Clapton performed. After the building mysteriously burned down in the 1970s, it became a hippie commune. Nowadays, it houses 26 artist studios, Twickenham rowing club and is home to a small community of people. The unique place is car free and only accessible by a footbridge over the river.

On the opposite side of the river is an play beach complete with a 7ft pirate ship which is usually a winner with my daughter but she had fallen asleep by this time so I gave it a miss, savoured the moment and took a leisurely stroll along the riverside, soaking in the history of the area.

As I wandered along the riverside, lined with aged buildings and of course the forever present River Thames, it made me think about all the others who have passed down the same path, looked out at the same views and rowed down the river. What did they wear? What did they do? What kind of life did they have? What ale did they drink at the 17th century White Swan pub, still open today.

I soon came to the entrance of Orleans House. I had always intended to visit this historic building but had just never been – I find that happens when things are on your doorstep. I came into a quiet garden and a smallish building stood before me with one distinct feature – an baroque, Octagonal tower. 

Inside the building, is a gallery which is free to look around. Inevitably, I couldn’t escape the rugby theme – an exhibition celebrating moments of rugby glory greeted me – with items from England’s World Cup win in 2003 taking centre stage. There were also older artefacts from the history of the sport including photos and rugby related clothing. I was unable to explore the upstairs as Mrs T was asleep in the buggy although I was told that there are plans to install a lift. It’s a small area and the real wow factor is the Octagonal room.

Orleans House was built by the architect John James in 1710 for the politician and diplomat James Johnston. It was later named after the Duc D’Orleans, the former King of France, Louis Philippe, who stayed there during his exile from 1813 to 15. Unfortunately, by the 20th century the building had become derelict and in 1926 was mostly demolished. Thanks to the efforts of a prominent local woman, the Octagonal room, which was designed by the famous architect James Gibbs, was saved.

The room is currently undergoing some restoration but it is still in very good condition and fascinating to look at and imagine what life would have been like there: gazing out at the beautiful gardens, glimpsing the river, just a few metres away.

The house has been a gallery since 1972 and is also used as a wedding venue. Behind the main building there are some stables which have been converted into another gallery and a council-run art centre which holds art workshops for all ages of children and adults. There is also a cafe which serves very good coffee and delicious cakes. With my daughter still asleep, I  took advantage of the quiet time and relaxed.

Suddenly, Mrs T interrupted the quiet. She had woken up and was a bit confused where she was. We headed out and she ran around the grounds a little before we went to the river to feed the ducks.

After throwing our first bits of bread into the river to a handful of ducks, we were soon joined by more and more including some local white birds who deftly caught the bread, mid-air, in their beaks. It was quite a display and Mrs T throughly enjoyed it. Meanwhile, what looked like members of a junior rowing club went past in their boats. 

Once out of bread, we headed to Marble Hill Park next to the Thames. The 66 acres make up the grounds of Marble Hill House, a Palladian villa built in 1729 for King George II’s mistress, Henrietta Howard, Countess of Suffolk. She entertained famous friends such as Alexander Pope and Jonathan Swift there. The house (which I have yet to visit) has been refurbished inside to recreate an 18th century look while some original objects have been recovered including original paintings by Giovanni Paolo Panini.

We had a wander through the park, picking up conkers and enjoying the glimpses of sun which appeared as we headed home. There’s still so much for us to explore in Twickenham but one thing is for sure, there’s certainly more to it than just rugby.

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