Exploring 16th Century France in Troyes

Having packed up the car as best we could for our family road trip, the husband quickly ushered me into the car, panicking that we would miss the Eurotunnel train (we were an hour and a half early)! In the process, some of my essential clothing items were forgotten BUT we were on the road and there was no turning back. Our first overnight stay on our epic trip from London to Bologna (and back) was at the historic French city, Troyes, around 90 miles from Paris.

On previous occasions when we have driven to the French Alps, we have stopped slap-bang in the middle of the champagne region enjoying some time in Reims and Epernay. Champagne is my favourite tipple so normally I’d be all for this stop-off but being pregnant it didn’t appeal. Watching my hubby devour the fizz instead of me didn’t sound like much fun! Instead, we headed further south to Troyes (pronounced ‘tois’) which was just over half-way to our first destination.

The small city of 60,000 inhabitants lies on the outskirts of the famous sparkling wine region close to Burgundy and it is the ancient capital of Champagne. Although it is one hour away from the heartland and has no champagne cellars, there were a number of champagne bars which I looked at longingly.

The gem in Troyes’ crown though is its architecture. The quaint city is filled with 16th century half-timbered buildings. Wandering around the city, every side street and corner provided another photo opportunity as tall, colourful buildings looked down on us.

Timber houses in Troyes, France

Troyes is apparently one of the best places in France to get a sense of what Europe looked like in the sixteenth century. The distinct buildings were constructed after a devastating fire in 1524. Many of the towering, skinny properties are lopsided, leaning against each other for support. Where subsequent fires have destroyed the timber properties, a number of Renaissance buildings stand majestically alongside them.

Timber houses in Troyes, France
Troyes’ Gothic cathedral is another focal point. While the main facade dates from the mid 1500s, some of its stained glass windows go back to the 13th century.
Troyes Cathedral, France
The city has several Gothic churches which are worth viewing as well as museums. We didn’t get the chance to explore them but The Musee d’Art Moderne is the most notable, housing a private collection of mainly Fauvist paintings including the French artists Vlaminck and Derain. At 12€, a Troyes museum pass is good value giving access to all museums as well as some other perks such as champagne tasting. If you are into shopping, Troyes is also know for its factory outlet stores.
Timber houses in Troyes, France
We wandered around Troyes for a couple of hours. admiring the unique streets, walking beneath the over-hanging houses and imagining what life may have been like back in the days of The Musketeers. I took as many pictures as I could before the light faded.
Timber houses in Troyes, France
Having caught sight of the carousel in the main square and growing tired of walking, we finally gave into our three year old’s demands and went to the main square.
Timber houses in Troyes, France
The carousel turned out to be one of the best I have ever seen. Mrs T went in a rocket ship which she could move up and down herself at the touch of a button. Some of the characters though were a bit risquee. Only in France would you see this half-naked mermaid.
carousel in Troyes, France
Only in France would you get this racy mermaid on a carousel!

We then headed to one of the best restaurants for local cuisine in Troyes, Le Bisroyette. Recommended by our hotel (we stayed at Le Mercure) we were given a coupon for a free glass of champagne each. Although it wasn’t the best, I got my taste of it and I didn’t feel too bad about leaving some.

Bistroquet, Troyes, France

The region’s local delicacy is ‘andouillette’ which loosely translates as ‘chitterling sausage’ It is in fact a pig’s intestine crammed full with more intestines. Yes, a whole load of tripe on one plate…doesn’t sound particularly appetising does it?

When my husband, Paul, enquired about it, the waiter was a little cautious about us ordering it and brought us a taster dish for us to try which also included a black pudding version. The rich dish tasted better than I thought it would but I was gobsmacked when my daughter happily munched it all up! Either she has a taste for offal or she was extremely hungry (I think it was probably the latter).

Andouillette at Bistroquet, Troyes, France
Mrs T enjoys Troyes delicacy andouillette
It certainly wasn’t for me but Paul ordered a trio of andouillette for main course. I stuck with the duck – which was excellent.
Trio of andouillette in Troyes
Troyes delicacy, andouillette

We then made our way back to the hotel. In the morning, Troyes was soaked with rain. We had time for a coffee and croissant at a cafe overlooking the main square which still looked stunning despite the weather.

Troyes, France

Not knowing what to expect, Troyes proved to be a very pleasing stop-off on our road trip and I would recommend as a day trip. For us, we felt relatively refreshed before hitting the road. Next stop, the French Alps.

If you found this article useful, you can download it as an app at GPSmyCity.

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PIN FOR LATERExploring 16th century Troyes, France with its half-timbered houses

Wander Mum
Lou Messugo
My Travel Monkey


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Wander Mum

I've always loved to travel so when my two daughters came along, I didn't stop. Travelling as a family can have its ups and downs but I love showing my children the world and helping others navigate travelling with children in tow.

66 Comments

  3. Really love the architecture. Could spend hours with a camera there. Sometimes its the lesser visited French towns and cities that surprise most. We were in Orleans lately. Filled with gorgeous squares. Sadly we only had a day there. Thanks for sharing. #CityTripping

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    1. I could have taken absolutely hundreds of pics! France is full of these little historical places..was great to come across Troyes! X

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  4. Troyes is lovely but I’m amazed you didn’t throw up with the smell of andouillette being pregnant. I can’t stand it at the best of times, and my poor husband who loves it is not allowed it in the house. I’m not a tyrant about many things but andouillette is one thing I put my foot down for! Hope to see this post next week at #AllAboutFrance, I still haven’t written anything new city-based… 🙁
    Phoebe @ Lou Messugo recently posted…Sunday Photo – 27 March 2016My Profile

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    1. Haha! It’s a pretty strong smell… Think if I’d been in my first trimester it would have had me running for the bathroom! I’m impressed your hubby likes it but not surprised it’s banned in your house! Haha. Yes! See you next Thursday for #allaboutfrance x

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  5. How lovely, I am such a francophile I would stop anywhere in France! Troyes looks like the perfect stopover. Thanks for clearing up the pronunciation too! My son loves the carousels too but is not such a fan of the one ride rule we have.. #citytripping
    Katy recently posted…On traveling and terrorismMy Profile

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    1. You are so right Samantha – there is no way she would have had that at home. Yes, we got a free glass of champers so had a few sips. Wasn’t the best but was good to have a taster! x

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  7. This gothic cathedral looks stunning! And I love the houses that give you the impression of the 16th century! To be honest, I have never heard of Troyes before, but now I just might have to check it out!

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  8. What a lovely stop – the narrow streets and old houses are fantastic, I’d have happily wandered around for hours too (as long as my own three-year-old would let me). I think I’m with you on the andouilette too. I’ll eat/try most things but tripe isn’t one which appeals! #citytripping
    Cathy (MummyTravels) recently posted…City Tripping #20My Profile

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    1. Nope – tripe certainly isn’t for me. Troyes was a delight to wander around… although was glad the carousel was there to finally amuse the little one!!

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  14. We haven’t heard of the city Troyes up to now, although we have a house in France (which we rent out to be able to travel 😉 It looks beautiful and worth to visit certainly! Where do you stay on your travels with the kids? I heard of a young family who is couchsurfing along the way with two kids. It’s amazing how open and welcoming the people are, especially in the UK and France. We are often couchsurfing with our traveling Beagle. Awesome experiences!
    Grey World Nomads recently posted…Scotland’s Argyll Forest ParkMy Profile

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    1. To be honest I had not heard of Troyes until we booked this trip either! It’s one of the lesser known places and not particularly touristy. We stay mainly in hotels or apartments when we travel… that’s interesting about the couchsurfing thing though.

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    1. Oh, it’s definitely worth considering. You only need a few hours there… so is perfect for a stop off. Where are you headed in France? Look forward to hearing all about it!

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  18. I love that French style wooden houses they always look amazing. In the Alsace region of france they are everywhere in bright and beautiful colors
    #citytrippin

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    1. Thanks Becky! I hope she does…even if it’s what different carousels there are in France and the local dishes! Haha – she really loves it…thank goodness!! x

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  23. Half naked mermaid on the carousel, hmm, yeah, only in France, LOL! What a lovely trip you had – I gather, the town wasn’t too crowded with tourists? Sounds like a perfect getaway to me 🙂 #citytripping

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    1. It was gorgeous. There are SO great French towns…will be writing about another one we found soon. Thanks for hosting #mondaescapes

      Reply

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