It was a searing hot July afternoon when we arrived in Lyon. Fairly exhausted after a two-day drive from London (with an overnight stop in Troyes) and with two children in tow, we only had one night in the historic city, known for its gastronomy, and were keen to see as much as we could. Unfortunately our few hours in Lyon didn’t quite go to plan.
The problem was we didn’t have much of a plan. Not wanting to cram too much in with a 6 week old and three year old, we simply wanted to get a feel for the city and check out the old town which is a Unesco World Heritage site.
After checking into our Mercure hotel, which was close to the Central Station, we set off to explore. Armed with a map and told by the hotel receptionist that it was only ten minutes to the centre we were excited to be somewhere new and glad to be out of the car, stretching our legs and feeling the sunshine on our faces.
Ten minutes later we had barely got to the end of a very long road.
Clearly our hotel wasn’t as central as its nearby station would suggest. And the receptionist not very good at distances. On we went. We crossed over the River Rhone, thinking we must be close to the historic old town.
We weren’t.
I was beginning to think that perhaps my husband had a point when he suggested we get a tram. Not that our walk was without its plus points, on the way we saw lots of important looking churches as well as spying Lyon’s famous landmark, the elegant 19th century Basilica Notre Dame de Fourvière sat upon the mountain top next to a replica of the Eiffel Tower, which was built in 1893 and is now used as a TV transmitter.
But we were feeling the heat. Mrs T was getting tired of walking. I was getting sweaty. We were all hungry. The only thing that seemed happy was the pedometer on my Fitbit which was happily counting up the numerous steps I’d been taking as we wandered the streets.
In fact, we weren’t far from the new city centre. If we had ventured a little deeper, we’d have come across the main square and been rewarded with its ground fountains, spurting out cool water, a welcome respite for both children and adults on a hot summers day.
After going as far as we could without a rest, we stopped at a cafe in a piazza for a drink and crêpe for our eldest daughter who was complaining she was hungry and was intent on pestering me while I attempted to feed our youngest daughter. It was our first trip away as a family of four and elements like this definitely made it harder. After consulting the map, again, we saw we had ANOTHER river to cross until we made it to the old town. Off we trotted again. Surely it couldn’t be too much further?
But we didn’t get to see any of that. Lyon, we discovered to our detriment, is a very big city.
We finally made it to the old town and the long walk was justified. Cobbled streets and a thriving bar and restaurant scene greeted us. Thank goodness, because we were very hungry. The area is home to numerous ‘bouchons’, Lyonnaise bistros serving traditional local dishes.
For some reason, some of the bouchons we stopped at didn’t want us sitting outside with the pram. I thought this rather strange, surely it is more inconvenient and tight, space wise, to have the bulky contraption inside? Having no time at that point in the day for family unfriendly establishments I insisted we moved on (even though my tummy was telling me otherwise). It being a Friday night, the medieval quarter was busy but we eventually found somewhere slightly away from the main throng and up a small hill.
Lyon is known as the gastronomic capital of France so I doubt you can have a bad meal there. I decided to brave a local dish and went for a pike soufflé in lobster sauce. A strong tasting, hearty dish which was tasty enough although large so I failed to finish. My hubby, Paul, was rather unadventurous and went for the steak. Mrs T sampled some gratin and was delighted to get a Mickey Mouse shaped chocolate covered ice cream for pudding.
There was no way we would be trekking back to our hotel on foot so we headed to the taxi rank. On our way, we passed a church where a group of Christian Iraqis were singing outside, a harmonious, cosmopolitan moment set against the backdrop of the Notre dame cathedral looking down on the city from its elevated perch.
We headed away and back to our hotel in a cab, in a journey that took us around ten minutes.
There ended our brief few hours in Lyon. The next morning we were up and off to get a flight to Italy and bid Lyon farewell far too soon. It is a vast city with much to see and do: from viewing the remnants of its Roman history and climbing up its mountain to visiting its museums and sampling its cuisine, a few days, not hours, are needed.
It certainly needs a second look from us (and with the Rhone valley spitting distance away many reasons to return). Next time we will set aside at least three nights there and book a hotel slap bang in the centre of the city. Oh, and maybe do a bit more research beforehand.
Here’s a 2 minute vlog of our visit
How not to do it like us
– Choose a hotel in the centre of town. We stayed at the Mercure because it was easily accessible to airport and handy for the next leg of our trip. We were going to Italy the following day and had parked our car at the airport. The train from the airport stopped right outside the hotel.
– Plan your time in Lyon and the distances involved!
– Get the Lyon card. There are 1/2/3 day passes available. Gives you entry to every Lyon museum, the roof of Notre Dame cathedral AND unlimited travel on buses, trams, the funicular and metro. Can be bought from some hotels and tourist office.
– Book a Bouchon, especially if you are looking to eat later in the evening.
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I really love that you are honest about a trip that was not perfect, and at times frustrating, annoying and tiring. I think as travellers we just have to accept that it happens at times and is not always great, and that is how we can let the experiences happen that are truly awesome. Do you travel specifically to write about it or do you just generally travel a lot – it is really impressive to see you on the road that much with a six week old!
Thanks Verena, when they are young they are definitely a lot more portable to travel about with. We do travel a lot – love it – the good and the bad.
Such a drag that that restaurant treated you so unfriendly. I agree, with a stroller in tow, you’d think they would rather you sit outside where there is more room to move around. I can’t tolerate unfriendly institutions and Germany certainly has PLENTY of those. I don’t know how I manage it and I don’t even have kids and strollers yet! #CityTripping
Lolo recently posted…Your Essential Guide to Europe
Oh, does it? That’s interesting. I always thought Germany would be pretty good. France isn’t usually too bad so I was quite surprised.
Can you believe that I’ve never been for leisure in Lyon although I bought a holiday house four years ago only one hour away? A ‘Lyonnaise’ invited me to do a insider tour – I guess, I should do that next time I’m in France 😉
Oh, you certainly should take them up on that. Where did you get a house? The surrounding area is amazing. We loved it there.
at least you got to see some of the city:) I’m sure you’ll be back soon to explore it properly:) #city tripping
Tanja (the Red phone box travels) recently posted…Beach snaps VII
We will Tanja!
I’ve never had the chance to visit Lyon. My best friend lived there for 1 year and I was supposed to go but my annual leave was cancelled last minute and I had to cancel my trip. She always speaks very highly of the city and when I see your pictures, I can understand why. The buildings look wonderful ! One other good thing is the food.. ah French food.. so cheap and delicious 🙂 #citytripping
Gin recently posted…Road trip in Taiwan – Sun Moon Lake
French food is wonderful! Such a shame you didn’t get to go when your friend was there. Always great to have a ‘local’ show you around. At least you can get some good tips off her though.
Oh, how disappointing when you had such a short time in the city but good for your readers who can learn from your experience! I learned a very similar lesson in Bruges – our hotel was at the edge of town in an industrial area which might have been okay but then I got flu (actual achey-painy flu) and trekking into town became impossible. Your booking a bouchon tip is gold! #CityTripping
Mandy recently posted…Anarch-Tea at W London Leicester Square
Oh, you poor thing Mandy. So horrible being ill when travelling.
Enjoyed your vlog. Despite the long walk, the square and the food looks great. #CityTripping
Ahila recently posted…Special Six: Beijing Experiences
Thank you Ahila! Yes, was all worth it in the end.
Lyon is high on my list to visit, might add a travel card on to my need to buy list given your experience!
#CityTripping
Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays recently posted…WESTMINSTER CATHEDRAL
Yes, I would definitely recommend doing that Catherine!
Poor you! It’s always disappointing when things don’t go as you had hoped. A two day drive with a six week old was courageous. I think we have the only baby in the world that hates her car seat so can’t imagine doing that just yet!
I hope you have a better time in Italy
Oh no. Our baby doesn’t exactly love her car seat but 10 minutes in the car and she’s usually asleep!
It sounds like a lovely place, certainly worth a return visit for you one day 🙂
Exactly, we will return!
Oh it’s a pity you didn’t have more time in Lyon, the old town is really cute. But it’s a good excuse to come back another time 😉
I’ve been a couple of times & still didn’t see everything!
And I definitely didn’t have the courage to taste local food as there is a lot of entrails (don’t if this is the right word in English)…
I enjoyed the vlog btw 😉
xx
Umberta
Umberta recently posted…Shooting in Milan
Thank you Umberta, I’m looking forward to revisiting lyon! The local food is a little unusual!
Sounds like a complicated and stressful trip. I had the same “10 minute” problem in both Paris and Versailles when I visited in July. I’ve come to believe that everything in France is within a “10 minute walk” and yet nothing is. :-/ #citytripping
Mandy recently posted…Hunting Island State Park, SC
Haha – you could be right. In future I shall treat the ’10 minute walk’ with scepticism when in France.
Such a shame your mini trip to Lyon wasn’t a resounding success, but all the more reason to go back now you know what not to do! It really is a great city.
Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…7 favourite museums in Provence Côte d’Azur
Exactly Phoebe! We’ll definitely be back!
Thanks for linking to #AllAboutFrance
Phoebe | Lou Messugo recently posted…All About France #21
Thanks for hosting #allaboutfrance
Crepes will do it every time! Glad you finally made it to the town centre. x
Susanna recently posted…Silicon Valley Tech Tour: Top 13 sites to visit
Oh yes, the crepes certainly kept her happy for a while.
Aw, definitely keeping it real in this post. I’m glad your family were all on speaking terms at the end of it. And a pike souffle does sound adventurous! #cityripping
tots2travel recently posted…Day Out – Highland Safari Red Deer & Barn Owl Experience, Perthshire
Ha, thanks. Travelling with kids isn’t always sun and smiles. I thought I was quite adventurous too!
Oh dear… the drawback of travelling with kids sometimes. What a shame you didn’t have a bit more time to explore (and a more central hotel). I liked the video. #citytripping
Cathy (Mummytravels) recently posted…City Tripping #40
Thank you Cathy. We had to cut our time in Lyon to fit in our jaunt over to Italy…we are already plotting our return!
You were SO brave taking the little one! And how cute is she with all that beautiful hair! We’re thinking of Lyon for next year so your blog was a good taster. 🙂 #citytripping
Alex recently posted…I’ve Received A Liebster Award!
Aw, thanks Alex. Lyon and the surrounding area is amazing. We’ll definitely go back.
Really great advice, even if your experience wasn’t as smooth at you had hoped. I’ve definitely have times where i wish I had planned more!
Kit Graham recently posted…Exploring Shoreditch London
Thanks Kit. We travel and learn!
I hope you get to revisit Lyon soon! The architecture looks amazing and the Pike Souffle looks delicious. Yum!
Brooke of Passport Couture recently posted…The Story of My Organic Cotton Tote
I’m definitely going to head back in the next couple of years!
I was so tickled by the replica of Eiffel Tower that has become a TV transmitter! I’ll remember to use the tram if I ever am in Lyon, just reading about your walk makes me tired somewhat.. >_< #CityTripping
Bumble Bee Mum recently posted…Mitzo (Grand Park Orchard) Weekend Brunch & Family Fun!
Haha – me too. Our hotel was quite far out though.
That soufflé looks interesting, but huge 🙂
beatravelling recently posted…Snow White Roll, 911 Fire Roll, Darth Vader Roll: This Sushi You Gotta Try!
It was!
We have had so many days out like this. It can be sooo hard can’t it. I am glad the food didn’t disappoint though. It’s harder winging it with the babies isn’t it.
I’m so glad I’m not the only one! Haha – yes definitely trickier to wing it when there’s a crying baby in the room.
I absolutely appreciate your honesty. It’s refreshing. My son will head to Lyon for an exchange with his French class – I’m excited for him! Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin #MondayEscapes
How fantastic. He’ll have a great time.
I’ve been through Lyon probably 3 times whilst visiting Grenoble, but never visited the city itself. This post has just proved that I should definitely spend a few days in Lyon next time instead of just passing through. #MondayEscapes
Oh, you definitely should!
I spent my French exchange (aged 14) in Lyon, and I remember very little – a park where we cycled! It does look like an interesting place with its culture, architecture and food. I love your little vlog! #mondayescapes
Megan – Truly Madly Kids recently posted…10 Reasons Menorca is perfect for families
Thank you Megan!
Ah, I feel your pain in this post. Everything takes longer with kids in tow doesn’t it. We’re here in India now, I’m taking public transport whenever possible. I’m glad you finally made it into the centre! #CityTripping
Our Seaside Baby recently posted…India Diaries: Our first week in India
It really does. Enjoy India…now that really is a challenge – especially on public transport – respect!
I love reading about the less than perfect side of family travel. I can say this because I’ve also added a bit of a failed trip to #MondayEscapes! I’m also glad I’m not the only one who turns up to places having barely had time to check the map! ?
Claire at Tin Box Traveller recently posted…Creating confident swimmers: Baby Swimming Shop review
Oh, you’ve made me feel a lot better Claire. Being a travel blogger, I should really do a bit more research but when there’s a full itinerary on hand, sometimes it’s hard! Love your Pompeii post – glad you got some of your money back after having such a useless guide!
It´s true. Not all trips are all rainbows and unicorns. Some of them are just exhausting. Specially with children. But it seems that you see and feel some atmosphere of Lyon. If you have time, I´ll be glad if you join my TRAVEL INSPIRATION link up.
Anna xoxo
http://www.flostenparadise.com
Hi Anna, Thanks for highlighting the linky – will take a look.
Ohh noo, so sorry about that :/
I’ve been to Lyon before, also only for a day, but since I had a friend who lived there, everything was easier 😀
Happy to have you on our (Ting and I) last #MondayEscapes 😀
Packing my Suitcase recently posted…Slovenia and Croatia: a two-week itinerary
Having someone there would be perfect! So sad it’s your last #mondayescapes
Thanks for sharing this post. It brings back memories of when my kids were young, and how we’d have to adapt and compromise to make a success of family trips. There’s a really good website called ‘Take the Family’, which gives lots of advice about travelling with little ones. The editor, Rhonda Carrier, has also written a series of Frommer’s travel guides, eg ‘Brittany with the Kids’, which are well worth investing in. They tell you useful stuff like places with nappy-changing facilities, and family-friendly restaurants. Anyway, I hope you have a better time when you go back.
Thank you for the tip….will check the website out. Travel is certainly different with children – especially now we have two – but we don’t intend on stopping.
It’s really interesting that you found Lyon tricky to navigate and get into. I think this is probably because it is relatively unknown to (English) tourists and so is not at all set up to help them out. Actually, I think it’s really small and totally do-able in a day, but you’re right that Part Dieu is not the place to stay. The geography means that what looks like the centre is not the centre… Anyway, if you’re ever here again, do feel free to get in touch and ask for some hints. #AllAboutFrance
Thank you Emily! That’s lovely. I am sure we will be back…and will be staying somewhere far more central!
Your post made me smile Elizabeth. We visited Lyon back in 2014 and did a similar walk from the train station…in exactly the wrong direction. Lyon is a lovely city though and one we would be happy to go back to if we got the chance!
Haha. Oh no! At least we were going the right way. We are definitely planning on doing it better next time!
Hi Elizabeth. When we first moved to France (a couple of hours west of Lyon) we would go to Lyon with our 8-year-old for an “American” weekend — they had a Pizza Hut and a Toys-R-Us! But over the years we came to appreciate the city for its beauty, its history — and, yes, for the incredible cuisine. Thanks for jogging some very pleasant memories of the time we’ve spent there! (Suggestion for next time: Paul Bocuse’s Brasserie Sud for a very fine meal in a fairly relaxed setting)
Hi Richard, glad I brought back some memories…thank you for sharing and the restaurant tip. I am sure we’ll be back soon!
Hello! I truly love Lyon and my fresh advice for you is: you must go back! I’ve not visited with children but I can in fact understand how strolling/walking with little ones would be difficult there. My feet always hurt after a day of trying to see it all in such a rich spot!
Hi Jill, I’m very keen to take on your advice and go back…but next time will be staying a bit more central (and utilising the public transport too).
Part Dieu to Vieux Lyon is quite a trek! (and it’s not even very pretty until you hit the Rhône, is it.) I remember having a stopover at Part Dieu before I moved to Lyon and thinking I’d just wander around the neighborhood and see a bit of Lyon before my next train, but there wasn’t much to see – it’s not the greatest part of the city to visit! But certainly it is convenient when you have a plane to catch. I’m glad you had a nice little visit in Lyon despite your long walk 🙂 (For anyone who ends up at the Part Dieu train station and wants to get over the Vieux Lyon or the city center, the C3 bus towards Saint Paul will take you straight down Cours Lafayette – that long long street – and over the bridge.)
Thanks for the bus tip Catherine – that would have been very helpful! It really was a long trek and, you are right not much to see, in the Part Dieu area.
What a shame you weren’t informed of a bus to get into the city, especially as you were finding it warm and had two young children in tow. But sounds like it was still a lovely visit, once you got there. I do the same and like to include a few hours in a place, rather than not see it at all. At least you have an insight whether you want to return and explore more.
Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe recently posted…Ho Chi Minh – Paris of Asia
Exactly. It was good to get an overview. I’m glad we went. It was certainly an experience
Hi Elizabeth!
I’m sorry to hear how disappointed you were with your trip to Lyon. Our city is indeed a big one with many things to do but with the right preparation and guides in hand, I promise it becomes a lot less overwhelming! I do hope you get to come back and give it another try, especially during the wintertime: I’m sure Mrs. T would love all the sparkling lights and beautiful Christmas decorations. Do not hesitate to stop by (cf URL in username) and give us your feedback: it matters to us.
À bientôt!
Hey, thank you. I do intend to return to Lyon one day. Perhaps a winter time visit could work!